BEYMA 18G50 PDF

drawing & mounting du cone driver Beyma Beyma 18G50 (8Ohm) spl / distorsion vs frequency measurement du cone driver Beyma Beyma 18G50 (8Ohm) spl vs. Subwoofer Beyma 18G General specifications: diameter 18 inches, maximum power W. Thiele-Small parameters: frequency of self resonance Fs=40 Hz. Can someone please assist me in getting a plan for Beyma 18G Unfortunately , I have 4 of these units and would like to use them for high.

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I just recently put together a slightly modified sub paired with a Bemya 18G Good in theory, poor in implementation and execution. Not my idea, suggested by the guy who helped build it. We figured, sure top mounting the driver would make for a better seal and would put less force on those screws. We didn’t figure in the lack air-tight-ness that would be introduced So I shot some screws to hold the driver board assembly in place and used pretty hefty weatherstripping to seal that gap using the removable back panel.

That seemed work perfectly fine. I took the cab to a gig and tested it. It sounded pretty good. Powered it with a Crown PowerTech 3.

I sealed all the joints inside with some black silicone sealant. Let it sit for a few days Fired up the cabinet after a few days, and there was this odd vibration sound. So you might ask, why put the beymw on if it sounded fine? Well, I figured it couldn’t hurt, so why not? Later 18t50 identified the part of the vibration, it was due to the modifications previously mentioned.

I noticed that when we had the cabinet upside down it sounded fine. I figured this was due to the weight of the magnet applying pressure to the driver board assembly, sealing it up.

So I grabbed a few more long screws and shot the driver board into the cabinet, securing that. A few days later, fired it up again, and there bryma an odd “extra” noise coming out of it.

There was a slight air leak at the one corner. So I got a flashlight and looked, sure enough that edge seen above was leaking air badly. So I got out the silicone and shot more screws into the assembly and sealed it up for good. At this point in time i switched to hex bejma screws for the back pannel.

Probably the best advice I can give anyone building one of these.

Beyma 18G50 18″ Mega Woofer Subwoofer Speaker with ” Coil 8 Ohm W 98dB | eBay

So, fired it back up, still some odd “extra” sound So I determined that we should take the speaker outside for testing, my basement has too much that will rattle. I had a lighting setup just behind this and I could hear the lenses shaking about. Got it outside and turned it up. Sounded better but still not quite like it should.

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My dad stuck his hand in the upper port and. So I investigated, sure enough, it was largely off the cone! So I finished the job, bfyma the speaker sounded as it should. No distortion, no “extra” noise I have two thoughts though: Any thoughts on what to do about this? My friend said I could just glue the cover back on with some elmers glue. Said I could probably do it with the cab assembled. I’m not totally sure on how the dust cover “popped” off. I was 18g550 the cabinet with the back off at low power just to see if anything was shaking inside.

Beyma 18G50 18″ Mega Woofer Subwoofer Speaker With ” Coil 8 Ohm w 98db | eBay

With the cover being off on the back, there shouldn’t have been sufficient air pressure built up in the lower chamber to pop off the dust cover Perhaps the cabinet being fully sealed after all the silicon somehow had 18g05 effect.

If anyone has any comments, thoughts etc. Yes I know I’m an idiot lol no need to beat a beymaa horse. Superglue will do this, or I think Parts Express in the Sttes may have a specific glue. Yes Parts Express has this: I’m not sure if the noise I heard earlier was a result of the dust cap being partially off or something that having air pass between the two chambers as it is now-through the center of the magnet and up thru where the dust cover is supposed to be has “fixed” The noise was probably a result of the beyam cap vibrating.

Glue it back on asap, I would go as far to say use whatever you have, superglue, 2 part epoxy, PVA etc. Just don’t paste the cone with it, use only what you need. Can you now remove the driver if you need to?

Edited by amss – 09 November at 7: I’d much rather not remove it. If it beeyma removed I’d might as well redo the interior mounting properly 1850 whatnot. As it sits now, sans dust cover, it sounds great.

I’m wondering if the fact that air can 18g500 travel between the two chambers is playing any role in that sound. If I were you I would take it out and neyma it properly, it would play on my mind but thats just me. T nut the baffle so the driver bema be bolted on from the top and therefore removable. Use Polyurethane adhesive on the baffle with some screws. Oh it annoys me plenty that it not done proper.

It would take a good chunk of time to properly correct. Pisses me off because theres a beautiful three coats of duratex on it now. I’d have to rip out all the internal framing and correct the size. I have two gigs coming so it’ll have to wait until later on I just hope that beymw I reglue that dust cap.

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The only way I could figure it would happen would be if the driver was on the way down and the lower chamber was pressurized, forcing air up into the dust cover area.

Beyma 18G50 18″ Mega Woofer Subwoofer Speaker With 4.5″ Coil 8 Ohm 1500w 98db

Could be, I thought both chambers were ported though so I’m not sure how there could be any build up of pressure. I have never seen or used a though so you have a better idea than me.

It could be a manufacturing defect, did you check the driver over before installing? Look at the dust cap, does it have some of the cone on it as if it has been ripped off or is it a clean 18b50 I am facing a similar problem with the sound Silicon fumes can eat away at the speaker. If you so seal the box edges with silicon, allow it to dry at least overnight before adding the drivers”.

Well, I had no idea. Thats probably what happened. Now I wonder how long that poor driver has to live. Hopefully all that was effected was the dust cap.

184 Sub + Beyma 18G50.story..problems..questions

Here are some pics I took this morning with my mobile If you are going to glue dust caps or any part of the cone, best to use something like Evostick impact adhesive as it remains flexible and rubbery, so able to soak 18t50 the vibrations. Any glue that sets rock hard beymz be brittle and more likely to give way under the vibrations. The Beyma recones I’ve used in the past come supplied with a tube to glue the surround, spider and dustcap, so its plenty strong enough.

This page was generated in 0. Hello everyone, I just recently put together a slightly modified sub paired with a Bemya 18G Fired it up again, sounded pretty good. The driver is stiiting in a way as to collect dust, to protect it.

I should be good with that stuff, it specifically says for dust caps. Question, With the dust cap off, air can be exchanged between the two chambers internally right?

Shamalan On-Time Events Malaysia. If you so seal the box edges with silicon, allow it to dry at least overnight before adding the drivers” Well, I had no idea.

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